Digital Photography from 20,000 Feet
by Wesley Fink on September 25, 2006 12:05 AM EST- Posted in
- Digital Camera
Understanding 35mm and Digital Lenses
If you have no interest in understanding what different lenses do and when to use them, then don't buy a Digital SLR. The main reason SLR exists is to offer a flexible platform for using a wide range of lenses. You could justify the quality aspect and through the lens viewing, but you can find those features on fixed lens cameras. People who buy a digital SLR with one lens they never change and never intend to change are basically wasting their money - they should buy a quality point-and-shoot or fixed lens SLR.
Image Size
To understand how different lenses behave and which lens to use in digital photography we need to go back to 35mm basics. Early 35mm cameras generally shipped with a single focal length "normal" lens. "Normal" is defined as the approximate point of view of your single eye when looking at a scene. That is, if you keep both eyes open when looking through a viewfinder, a camera with a normal lens will look about the same as what the other eye not looking through the lens sees. It is easy to determine the "normal" lens focal length for any image size - it is approximately equal to the diagonal of the image size, which is obviously about the same as the field of view if you consider that as a circle.
This means a normal lens for 35mm would be about 45mm. For those who enjoy history you might be interested to know that the 35mm normal lens got defined as 50mm by Oskar Barnack, the creator of the Leica camera. At the time lens technology could produce sharper lenses if they were slightly longer than normal, so Barnack defined normal as 50mm on the early Leicas. The definition stuck, but most would agree normal on 35mm is anywhere between 40 and 58mm. Lenses with shorter focal lengths than normal are called wide angle, because they see more than the normal lens, and longer focal lengths are called telephoto.
You can see from the chart above that "normal" for APS C size, used in most digital SLRs, is about 28mm - and not the 45mm to 50mm typical of 35mm. The digital normal is a little more complicated than the simple math of film normal, because it got defined in the 1950s by TV tube size (normal is about 2/3 TV tube size). However, the real image size for APS C in digital ranges from about 22.7mm x 15.1mm to 23.7 x 15.8mm (sometimes called DX). This means that 28mm is close enough for this discussion.
For those of you who have looked at Digital Camera specs and wonder what a 1/1.8" sensor means in point-and-shoot digital specifications, it means an image size of 7.18mm x 5.32mm - MUCH smaller than the 22.7mm x 15.1mm of APS C. You can see the translations in the chart below of digital.
Since the imaging companies are convinced that consumers understand 35mm lens ranges you will find most point-and-shoot cameras define their zoom or fixed lenses as equivalent 35mm specifications. When you see a Kodak P880, for example, defined as a 24-140mm zoom lens you might also notice it uses a 1/1.8" sensor. Since that sensor is about 9mm at normal, the true focal length of the lens is somewhere around 4-28mm. By calling it 24-140mm the manufacturer hopes the potential buyer understands the zoom range in common terms.
If you have no interest in understanding what different lenses do and when to use them, then don't buy a Digital SLR. The main reason SLR exists is to offer a flexible platform for using a wide range of lenses. You could justify the quality aspect and through the lens viewing, but you can find those features on fixed lens cameras. People who buy a digital SLR with one lens they never change and never intend to change are basically wasting their money - they should buy a quality point-and-shoot or fixed lens SLR.
Image Size
To understand how different lenses behave and which lens to use in digital photography we need to go back to 35mm basics. Early 35mm cameras generally shipped with a single focal length "normal" lens. "Normal" is defined as the approximate point of view of your single eye when looking at a scene. That is, if you keep both eyes open when looking through a viewfinder, a camera with a normal lens will look about the same as what the other eye not looking through the lens sees. It is easy to determine the "normal" lens focal length for any image size - it is approximately equal to the diagonal of the image size, which is obviously about the same as the field of view if you consider that as a circle.
| Traditional Film Image and Lens Characteristics | |||
| Film format | Image dimensions | Image diagonal | Normal lens focal length |
| APS C | 1.67 cm x 2.51 cm | 30.15 mm | 28 mm, 35 mm |
| 135 | 2.4 cm x 3.6 cm | 43.27 mm | 50 mm, 45 mm |
| 120/220, 6 x 4.5 (645) | 5.6 cm x 4.2 cm | 70.00 mm | 75 mm |
| 120/220, 6 x 6 | 5.6 cm x 5.6 cm | 79.20 mm | 80 mm |
| 120/220, 6 x 7 | 5.6 cm x 6.8 cm | 88.09 mm | 90 mm |
| 120/220, 6 x 9 | 5.6 cm x 8.2 cm | 99.30 mm | 105 mm |
| large format 4 x 5 sheet film | 10.16 cm x 12.7 cm (4" x 5") | 162.64 mm | 150 mm |
| large format 8 x 10 sheet film | 20.32 cm x 25.4 cm (8" x 10") | 325.27 mm | 355 mm (14") |
This means a normal lens for 35mm would be about 45mm. For those who enjoy history you might be interested to know that the 35mm normal lens got defined as 50mm by Oskar Barnack, the creator of the Leica camera. At the time lens technology could produce sharper lenses if they were slightly longer than normal, so Barnack defined normal as 50mm on the early Leicas. The definition stuck, but most would agree normal on 35mm is anywhere between 40 and 58mm. Lenses with shorter focal lengths than normal are called wide angle, because they see more than the normal lens, and longer focal lengths are called telephoto.
You can see from the chart above that "normal" for APS C size, used in most digital SLRs, is about 28mm - and not the 45mm to 50mm typical of 35mm. The digital normal is a little more complicated than the simple math of film normal, because it got defined in the 1950s by TV tube size (normal is about 2/3 TV tube size). However, the real image size for APS C in digital ranges from about 22.7mm x 15.1mm to 23.7 x 15.8mm (sometimes called DX). This means that 28mm is close enough for this discussion.
For those of you who have looked at Digital Camera specs and wonder what a 1/1.8" sensor means in point-and-shoot digital specifications, it means an image size of 7.18mm x 5.32mm - MUCH smaller than the 22.7mm x 15.1mm of APS C. You can see the translations in the chart below of digital.
| Digital Image and Lens Characteristics | ||||
| Sensor type | TV-tube diameter | Image dimensions | Image diagonal | Normal lens focal length |
| 1/3.6" | 7.1 mm | 4.00 x 3.00 mm | 5.00 mm | 5 mm |
| 1/3.2" | 7.9 mm | 4.54 x 3.42 mm | 5.68 mm | 5.7 mm |
| 1/3" | 8.5 mm | 4.80 x 3.60 mm | 6.00 mm | 6 mm |
| 1/2.7" | 9.4 mm | 5.37 x 4.04 mm | 6.72 mm | 6.7 mm |
| 1/2.5" | 10.2 mm | 5.76 x 4.29 mm | 7.2 mm | 7 mm |
| 1/2" | 12.7 mm | 6.40 x 4.80 mm | 8.00 mm | 8 mm |
| 1/1.8" | 14.1 mm | 7.18 x 5.32 mm | 8.93 mm | 9 mm |
| 1/1.7" | 14.9 mm | 7.60 x 5.70 mm | 9.50 mm | 9.5 mm |
| 1/1.6" | 15.9 mm | 10.5 mm | ||
| 2/3" | 16.9 mm | 8.80 x 6.60 mm | 11.00 mm | 11 mm |
| 1" | 25.4 mm | 12.80 x 9.60 mm | 16.00 mm | 16 mm |
| 4/3" | 33.9 mm | 18.00 x 13.50 mm | 22.50 mm | 23 mm |
| (APS-C) 1/8" | 45.7 mm | 22.70 x 15.10 mm | 27.3 mm | 27 mm |
| DX | n/a | 23.7 x 15.8 | 28.40 mm | 28 mm |
| FF (35 mm film) | n/a | 36 x 24 mm | 43.30 mm | 50 mm |
Since the imaging companies are convinced that consumers understand 35mm lens ranges you will find most point-and-shoot cameras define their zoom or fixed lenses as equivalent 35mm specifications. When you see a Kodak P880, for example, defined as a 24-140mm zoom lens you might also notice it uses a 1/1.8" sensor. Since that sensor is about 9mm at normal, the true focal length of the lens is somewhere around 4-28mm. By calling it 24-140mm the manufacturer hopes the potential buyer understands the zoom range in common terms.
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silver - Monday, September 25, 2006 - link
I think this is one tidbit that you might write on when you're realy bored. My images are backed up using Verbatim UltraLife Gold DVD-R media. You also need to make sure that they stay cool and dry much as you do with film. They're not as sensitive to humidity but as certainly far more sensitive to heat.Googer - Monday, September 25, 2006 - link
Panasonic is makeing and selling cameras based on good old Leca Lens. If you have a leica lens from any point in the last 55+ years, it will be compatable with a Panasonic/Leica Camera.
Wesley Fink - Monday, September 25, 2006 - link
The Pansonic Lumix DMC-L1 digital SLR uses a Leica lens built with a four thirds mount. This is the new digital only mount pioneered by Olympus. The LMC-L1 is mentioned in the guide.silver - Monday, September 25, 2006 - link
One of my friends has one of these and the images are simply incredible. He states that the Opticla Image Stabilization is simply the best he could find.wilburpan - Monday, September 25, 2006 - link
As someone used to shooting with film cameras, I can say that I still notice some shutter lag when using digital SLRs, even with current models. To write this off as "Virtually none of the lags of early digital cameras remain" is to ignore a real factor when it comes to the use of any camera.To put this another way, if a digital camera website stated that the choice of CPUs was unimportant in buying a computer because all modern day CPUs were fast and powerful enough, the readers of this site probably would bust a gut.
There are also speed issues involved with other uses of a digital camera that need to be addressed. The Nikon D80 takes about 1.4 seconds to store and then display an image after the shutter has been pressed. The speed of this process varies widely from camera to camera. Similar variances in speed and performance come into play when performing tasks such as playback of pictures taken, the time that it takes to process bursts of photos when shooting in continuous mode, etc.
silver - Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - link
Regarding shutter lag, digital cameras will always be slower than film. There's no way around that. My FM2n's have near instantaneous shutter release and are quite the opposite of my admittedly dated Fuji S602. What manufacturers need to do is to have separate power sources (batteries) for lens focusing and camera functions other than CCD/CMOS/memory charging. Obviously this would complicate the camera so they probably aren't considering this option.Wesley Fink - Monday, September 25, 2006 - link
This is where we start to get into questions about what test is real. The file flush time on a Nikon D80 is 2.0 seconds for a fine jpeg and a little less than 3s for a RAW+jpeg. However, you never encounter this becuase of the memory buffering built into the Nikon D80 and every other digital SLR camera. The D80 can do 3 fps for a little over 30 seconds shooting raw+jpeg, and with fine jpeg it can shoot 3fpm until you run out of flash card room or battery.I consider the D80 time of 160ms viewfinder blackout (0.16s), and a less than 0.1s from off to shot negligible for almost any users. Even the Sony, which has a 1 second start-up, is using almost all that time to clean the sensor before shooting, while shot-to-shot is very competitive with the best SLRs around. Some users might be happier if you could turn off the cleaning on start. While this may be very important for some users, it is doubtful that the small differences in recent digital SLR cameras will really be noticable or matter to most users.
dpreview is an excellent and respected digital review site, and I have sent many readers there with their questions. They often come back with more questions than answers, which usually means they found the technical level too far above their skills and needs. We can't be all things in Digital Camera reviews so we will likely err toward the more basic side.
We'll consider your suggestion about start-up times, but I'm not convinced yet.
yacoub - Monday, September 25, 2006 - link
I appreciate your article but I don't know: I think that folks into digital photography, no matter what other hobbies they have, including computer hardware or gaming, are knowledgable enough (or are competent enough to gain the knowledge needed) to make good use of a site like DPReview, which offers about all the info most need to make an intelligent purchase of a digital camera. Plus that being their primary focus (and has been for years), they automatically get much more credibility than a computer hardware site can hope to achieve by writing content basically saying "look we can do this too!" and writing what most good highschool photography classes are teaching today anyway.I guess my question is, why not stay focused on computer component hardware? All branching out does is reduce the chance of the main hardware getting the attention it needs. There are umpteen motherboard, videocard, and RAM reviews and guides yet to be completed or even begun, yet you're going off into digital photography land? That's kind of disappointing. For that hobby there are already many strong resources for folks who are into that, and many more for folks who want a simple pocket-sized point-n-shoot (which is the majority of folks). Why not focus on being the strong resource in computer hardware that folks in this hobby need?
fanbanlo - Monday, September 25, 2006 - link
Maybe AnandTech can explain to use what are the new technology built into the sensor rather than meaningless marketing terms givin to them.Different algorithm used? what's their computational power?
Why shoot RAW? RAW-enabled software review!?
Thx
Heidfirst - Monday, September 25, 2006 - link
For the lower end DSLRs (D50,350D,K100D etc.) I think that you should also review the standard kit lens as the majority of buyers will probably be buying it with the body as a package.By the time that you start hitting EOS30D type level imo most people will probably have lenses already or be buying a better lens than the entry level kit lens. Also if they are paying that for a body they quite probably are reasonably knowledgeable photo enthusiasts & maybe Anandtech isn't going to be the first place that they look for reviews so sticking to the lower end at least initially sounds reasonable to me.
The idea of a standard test scene is interesting but it would have to be reproducible which means in the studio & that means that it's less representative of the conditions in which most people will use them (I imagine that the % of even current DSLR users who shoot in the studio is in single figures & probably low single figures at that).